soil giveaway

Thank you for picking up soil during this year’s Earth Week giveaway! 

seedling giveaway

Thank you for picking up seedlings during this year’s Earth Week giveaway!

Generously donated by Plantel Nurseries!

Your new seedlings are…

(click on a variety to read growing instructions or simply scroll down on this page)

Growing Instructions:

1. Choose the proper location for sunlight.

• Kale does best in sunny locations, but it can tolerate partial shade. For an outdoor garden, make sure to choose a location that gets plenty of sun and where the soil has a good amount of drainage.

• For a container garden, find a place on a balcony, porch, or next to a window that gets at least six hours of full sun a day.

2. Plant your seedling transplants at the depth of the substrate they are growing in.

• For an outdoor garden, space the seedlings 18-24 inches apart.

• For a container garden, choose a pot (or other creative container) that is at least a foot in diameter and has a good amount of drainage. Plant a few seedlings 6-12 inches apart, depending on the amount of space you have.

3. Water your kale.

• Keep your kale seedlings watered with 1-1 ½ inches of water per week; outdoor soil should be moist down to an inch at all times.

• Since potted soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown kale more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool.

4. Make sure to feed your kale regularly.

• For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting, with re-applications when needed.

• For a container garden, use a water-soluble fertilizer once every 7-10 days.

5. Deal with the pesky pests.

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on kale and how to deal with them.

  • Mites or aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the kale and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for your or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids.

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys!

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your kale with tulle or a fine netting.

  • Slugs: Broken egg shells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil.

6. Harvest your kale.

• Kale is ready to be harvested when the leaves are about the length of your hand, this will typically be between 30-50 days. To harvest, start from the bottom of the stalk and move upwards, harvesting the oldest leaves first. Make sure to leave at least four leaves on the plant as well as the terminal bud (located at the top center of the plant) so your kale will continue to grow.

Growing Instructions:

1.     Choose the proper location for sunlight. 

• Romaine does best in sunny locations, but it can tolerate partial shade. For an outdoor garden, make sure to choose a location that gets plenty of sun and where the soil has a good amount of drainage. Romaine is more heat tolerant than other kinds of lettuce, but should still be harvested before the hottest part of the summer months. 

• For a container garden, find a place on a balcony, porch, or next to a window that gets at least six hours of full sun a day. 

2.     Plant your seedling transplants at the depth of the substrate they are growing in.

• For an outdoor garden, space the seedlings 10-12 inches apart. 

• For a container garden, choose a pot (or other creative container) that is at least a foot in diameter and has a good amount of drainage. For every seedling you will want two gallons of soil. Plant a few seedlings 6-12 inches apart, depending on the amount of space you have. 

3.     Water your romaine. 

• Romaine has a shallow root system, so make sure to keep the top few inches of soil moist at all time. Keep your romaine seedlings watered with 1-1 ½ inches of water per week.

• Since potted soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown romaine more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool. 

4.     Make sure to feed your romaine regularly.

• For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting, with re-applications when needed. If you choose a liquid fertilizer, apply it to the soil once every two to three weeks.

• For a container garden, use a water-soluble fertilizer once every 7-10 days, and make sure you have rich, well-drained soil. 

5.     Deal with the pesky pests. 

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on romaine and how to deal with them. 

  • Mites or aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the romaine and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for your or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids. 

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys! 

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your kale with tulle or a fine netting. 

  • Slugs: Broken egg shells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil. 

6.   Harvest your romaine. 

• It typically takes 55-65 days from seed to harvest for romaine, growing from seedlings will take less time. While it grows, cut yellow or torn outer leaves off of the plants at any time encourage new leaf growth. Romaine is ready to harvest when the leaves reach 6-8 inches tall and the head has started to compress. Immature romaine heads will still be loose, while over-ripened heads will feel hard and tightly bound. Cut the romaine heads off just above the soil and below the lower leaves if you want to grow additional lettuce from the same plant.

Growing Instructions:

 1. Choose the proper location for sunlight. 

• Leaf lettuce does best in sunny locations, but it can tolerate partial shade. For an outdoor garden, make sure to choose a location that gets plenty of sun and where the soil has a good amount of drainage. Leaf lettuce prefers looser soils with plenty of moisture. 

• For a container garden, find a place on a balcony, porch, or next to a window that gets at least six hours of full sun a day. 

2.     Plant your seedling transplants at the depth of the substrate they are growing in.

• For an outdoor garden, space the seedlings 10-12 inches apart. 

• For a container garden, choose a pot (or other creative container) that is at least a foot in diameter and has a good amount of drainage. For every seedling you will want two gallons of soil. Plant a few seedlings 6-12 inches apart, depending on the amount of space you have. Leaf lettuces can be grown closer together than head varieties, like romaine. 

3.     Water your lettuce. 

• Leaf lettuce has a shallow root system, so make sure to keep the top few inches of soil moist at all time. Keep your lettuce seedlings watered with 1-1 ½ inches of water per week.

• Since potted soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown romaine more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool. 

4.     Make sure to feed your lettuce regularly.

• For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting, with re-applications when needed. If you choose a liquid fertilizer, apply it to the soil once every two to three weeks.

• For a container garden, use a water-soluble fertilizer once every 7-10 days, and make sure you have rich, well-drained soil. 

5.     Deal with the pesky pests. 

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on lettuce and how to deal with them. 

  • Aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the lettuce and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for your or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids. 

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys! 

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your kale with tulle or a fine netting. 

  • Slugs: Broken eggshells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil. 

6.     Harvest your lettuce. 

• Leaf lettuce harvest can begin anytime the leaves have formed but prior to the formation of a seed stalk(bolting). Unlike head lettuce, you can harvest leaf lettuce one leaf at a time. Your lettuce will be ready to harvest when leaves are about four inches long. To harvest, use scissors or shears to cut outer leaves from the plant. Make sure not to cut too deep into the “crown” of the lettuce to avoid causing permanent damage to the plant.

growing instructions:

1. Choose the proper location for sunlight. 

• Bell peppers prefer warmer weather. Most gardeners would suggest keeping seedlings indoors until they reach about eight inches tall, then they can be transplanted into loamy, well-drained soil in a sunny spot after hardening off.  

• For a container garden, find a spot that gets at least six hours of sun a day and is sheltered from strong winds. Bell peppers are self-pollinating and have “complete” flowers, so they don’t need the help of critters or wind to set fruit. However, if you are growing indoors you can aid pollination by gently shaking the plant once a day.

2.     Plant your seedling transplants at the depth of the substrate they are growing in.

• For an outdoor garden, space seedlings 18-24 inches apart. Bell peppers also enjoy being planted next to tomato plants, if you have both try alternating their planting. Sometimes bell peppers need structural support if they are in the garden or a container. If this occurs, place a wooden dowel in the soil next to the base of the plant and tie the stem to it. 

• For a container garden, bell peppers need a well-draining pot that is at least 10 to 12 inches deep and 10 to 12 inches across. For a smaller pot, plant one seedling. For a larger pot (12+ inches) you can plant two to three seedlings, but make sure to give them enough space. 

3.     Water your bell peppers. 

• Bell peppers have a deeper root system than lettuces, so less frequent, heavier watering typically works better. You want the soil to be moist, but not over-saturated. 

• Since potting soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown bell peppers more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool. 

4.     Make sure to feed your bell peppers regularly.

• For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting, with re-applications when needed. If you choose a liquid fertilizer, apply it to the soil once every two to three weeks.

• For a container garden, use a water-soluble fertilizer once every two weeks and make sure to have proper drainage in your pot.  

5.     Deal with the pesky pests. 

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on bell peppers and how to deal with them. 

  • Aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the bell peppers and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for you or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids. 

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys! 

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your kale with tulle or a fine netting. 

  • Slugs: Broken eggshells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil. 

6.     Harvest your bell peppers. 

• You can harvest your bell peppers when they reach the desired size, regardless of what color they are. Young bell peppers will be green, but if they are left to ripen, they may turn yellow, orange, or red. Bell peppers will get sweeter the longer they stay on the plant, and they will also contain the greatest amount of nutrients. If you want to harvest younger peppers, you can cut them at the base of the stem. Picking peppers before they are fully mature will encourage the plant to set more flowers, and ultimately provide more fruit. If you harvest more mature peppers, they can easily be detached from the stem with a gentle twist. Make sure to save the seeds from your bell peppers to replant next season!

growing instructions:

1.     Choose the proper location. 

• Most peppers, including jalapeños, prefer warm weather. Most gardeners would suggest keeping seedlings indoors until they reach about eight inches tall, then they can be transplanted into loamy, well-drained soil in a sunny spot after hardening off. Jalapeño seedlings will not do well in temperatures lower than 65 degrees F. 

• For a container garden, find a spot that gets at least eight hours of sun a day and is sheltered from strong winds. Jalapeño peppers are self-pollinating, so they don’t need the help of critters or wind to set fruit.

2.     Plant your seedling transplants at the depth of the substrate they are growing in.

• For an outdoor garden, space seedlings 14-16 inches apart. Jalapeño peppers also enjoy being planted next to tomato plants, if you have both try alternating their planting. 

• For a container garden, jalapeño peppers need a well-draining pot that is at least 10 to 12 inches deep and 10 to 12 inches across. For a smaller pot, plant one seedling. For a larger pot (12+ inches) you can plant two to three seedlings, but make sure to give them enough space. A common rule of thumb is two gallons of soil per seedling to grow a mature plant. 

3.     Water your jalapeños. 

• Jalapeño peppers have a deeper root system than lettuces, so less frequent, heavier watering typically works better. You want the soil to be moist, but not over-saturated. Watering every other day should satisfy their needs. 

• Since potting soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown jalapeño peppers more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool.

4.     Make sure to feed your jalapeños regularly.

• For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting, with re-applications when needed. If you choose a liquid fertilizer, apply it to the soil once every two to three weeks. It is much easier on fruit-bearing plants to fertilize with diluted solutions more often than to use concentrated solutions one or two times.

• For a container garden, use a water-soluble fertilizer once every two weeks, and make sure to have proper drainage in your pot.  Continue fertilizing up until two weeks before you plan to harvest your first pepper.

5.     Deal with the pesky pests. 

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on jalapeño peppers and how to deal with them.

  • Aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the jalapeños and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for you or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids. 

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys! 

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your jalapeños with tulle or a fine netting. 

  • Slugs: Broken eggshells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil.

6.     Harvest your jalapeños. 

• From seedling to harvest should take about 60-80 days. Jalapeño peppers can be eaten green or red, with green peppers being less mature than red. Like bell peppers, a benefit to picking green jalapeños is that the process of removing fruit from the plant will signal it to put more energy into creating new blossoms, which means more peppers! To harvest your jalapeños, you can carefully pinch and twist them from the stem when they are firm, scissors or shears can be used when necessary.

Cauliflower

Cauliflower belongs to the Brassicaceae plant family along with plants like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage. As it suggests in the name, it really is a flower bud! Cauliflower is high in fiber, a good source of antioxidants, and is high in choline – an essential nutrient that helps synthesize DNA and support a healthy metabolism – that many people are deficient in. 

growing instructions:

1. Choose the proper location. 

• Most “brassicas” prefer colder weather, and cauliflower is no exception. Cauliflower should be planted outdoors in the early spring, and although it does best with full sun, partial shade can stop it from bolting (going to blossom) faster especially during the warmer months. Cauliflower needs rich, well-drained soil, and consistent moisture, so make sure it is planted somewhere it is easy to water and maintain. 

• For a container garden, find a spot that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Try not to plant cooler weather crops, like cauliflower, in black or metal containers as they will absorb heat and dry out the soil faster. 

2. Plant your seedling transplants at the depth of the substrate they are growing in.

• For an outdoor garden, space seedlings 18-24 inches apart to give plenty of room for the outer leaves to develop. Cauliflower needs rich, well-drained, and loose soil. Potting mixes that have ingredients like peat, compost, fine bark, and perlite work best. 

• For a container garden, choose as wide of a container as possible. While cauliflower grows large and spreads out, its roots are surprisingly shallow. A container that is 12-18 inches wide and 8-12 inches deep is suitable for one plant. Cauliflower needs rich, well-drained, and loose soil. Potting mixes that have ingredients like peat, compost, fine bark, and perlite work best.

3. Water your cauliflower. 

• Cauliflower plants need constant moisture, without enough water the plants can turn bitter. Water at least one inch per week, and especially during warmer times, feel about one inch into the soil to make sure there is plenty of moisture. 

• Since potted soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown cauliflower more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool. Water your cauliflower until you see water coming through the drainage hole at the bottom and never allow the potting mix to become fully dry. 

4. Make sure to feed your cauliflower regularly.

• For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting, with re-applications when needed. If you choose a liquid fertilizer, apply it to the soil once every two to four weeks. It is much easier on fruit bearing plants to fertilize with diluted solutions more often than to use concentrated solutions one or two times. Cauliflower thrives in rich soil, so compost and mulch can help your plants tremendously, especially since this plant takes a while to grow before harvest. 

• For a container garden, use a water-soluble fertilizer once a month, and make sure to have proper drainage in your pot so the nutrients and salts don’t pool around the roots. 

5. Deal with the pesky pests. 

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on cauliflower and how to deal with them. 

  • Aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the cauliflower and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for your or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids. 

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys! 

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your cauliflower with tulle or a fine netting. 

  • Slugs: Broken egg shells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil. 

  • Cabbage worms: Try floating row covers or companion planting. Many pests are less attracted to purple and red pants, so try interplanting purple cabbage and red kale.

6. Harvest your cauliflower. 

• From seedling to harvest should take about 55-100 days. Some varieties of cauliflower need a little help to ensure that they are tender and ready to be harvested, this process is called “blanching.” Blanching simply means protecting the head of the cauliflower from direct sunlight. Once your cauliflower heads are about two inches across, check to see if the leaves are curled over and doing a good job protecting it from the sun. If they aren’t, help them along by pulling the leaves together loosely over the center and securing them with a string or pin until the head is ready to be harvested. Check under the leaves weekly to make sure pests haven’t found a home under there and that there is still room for the head to grow.

growing instructions:

1. Choose the proper location.

• Most “brassicas” prefer colder weather, and broccoli is no exception. Broccoli should be planted outdoors in the early spring for a summer harvest, and although it does best with full sun, partial shade can stop it from bolting (going to blossom) faster especially during the warmer months.

• For a container garden, find a spot that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Try not to plant cooler weather crops, like broccoli, in black or metal containers as they will absorb heat and dry out the soil faster.

2. Plant your seedling transplants 1-2 inches deeper than where the base of the plant currently is.

• For an outdoor garden, space seedlings about 18 inches apart to give plenty of room for the outer leaves to develop. Broccoli needs rich, well-drained, and loose soil. Potting mixes that have ingredients like peat, compost, fine bark, and perlite work best.

• For a container garden, choose as wide of a container as possible. While broccoli grows large and spreads out, its roots are surprisingly shallow. Due to its wide spread, a five-gallon pot works well for one broccoli plant.

3. Water your broccoli.

• Broccoli plants need constant moisture. Water at least one to one and a half inches per week, and especially during warmer times, feel about one inch into the soil to make sure there is plenty of moisture.

• Since potted soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown broccoli more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool. Water your broccoli until you see water coming through the drainage hole at the bottom and never allow the potting mix to become fully dry.

4. Make sure to feed your broccoli regularly.

• For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting, with re-applications when needed. If you choose a liquid fertilizer, apply it to the soil once every two to four weeks. Broccoli plants shouldn’t need too much extra fertilizer if the starter soil is rich enough. Make sure to check on your broccoli often for signs of nitrogen deficiencies in the leaves, and fertilize accordingly.

• For a container garden, use a water-soluble fertilizer once a month, and make sure to have proper drainage in your pot so the nutrients and salts don’t pool around the roots.

5. Deal with the pesky pests.

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on broccoli and how to deal with them.

  • Aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the broccoli and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for your or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids.

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys!

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your broccoli with tulle or a fine netting.

  • Slugs: Broken egg shells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil.

  • Cabbage worms: Try floating row covers or companion planting. Many pests are less attracted to purple and red pants, so try interplanting purple cabbage and red kale.

6. Harvest your broccoli.

• From seedling to harvest should take about 50-70 days. Some broccoli varieties will get as large as the ones you see in the grocery store, but not all. Broccoli is ready to harvest when it is about the size of a fist, if you decide to wait for it to get bigger you could risk bolting and ruin the crop. To harvest, cut off the head with about four inches of stalk attached below. Harvesting the main head will encourage other heads to grow, although they will likely not grow as large as the first. As long as you keep harvest, your broccoli will keep producing until the weather gets too hot to support head formation.

growing instructions:

1. Choose the proper location.

• Most “brassicas” prefer colder weather, and Brussels sprouts are no exception. Brussels sprouts should be planted outdoors in the late winter and early spring for a summer harvest, and do best in temperatures below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants need full sun; partial shade can actually slow the growing process for this already long-to-harvest plant.

• For a container garden, find a spot that gets at least eight hours of sun a day. Try not to plant cooler weather crops, like Brussels sprouts, in black or metal containers as they will absorb heat and dry out the soil faster.

2. Plant your seedling transplants at the depth of the substrate they are growing in.

• For an outdoor garden, space seedlings 14-18 inches apart. Brussels sprouts need rich, well-drained, and loose soil. Potting mixes that have ingredients like peat, compost, fine bark, and perlite work best. These plants have fairly shallow root systems, so be careful when weeding or hoeing around them.

• For a container garden, you will need a container at least twelve inches in diameter for one plant. Place your container in a spot that receives full sun immediately after planting.

3. Water your Brussels sprouts.

• Brussels sprouts need quite a bit of water. Water at least one to one and a half inches per week, and especially during warmer times. Feel about one inch into the soil once a day to make sure there is plenty of moisture, you want your soil to be wet but not soaked.

• Since potted soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown Brussels sprouts more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool.

4. Make sure to feed your Brussels sprouts regularly.

• Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders. For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting. Fertilize again with a well-balanced mixture two to four weeks after planting, and another four weeks after that.

• For a container garden, start with a well-balanced potting mixture then use a water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks staring six weeks after planting, and make sure to have proper drainage in your pot so the nutrients and salts don’t pool around the roots.

5. Deal with the pesky pests.

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on Brussels sprouts and how to deal with them.

  • Aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the brussels sprouts and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for your or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids.

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys!

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your sprouts with tulle or a fine netting.

  • Slugs: Broken egg shells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil.

  • Cabbage worms: Try floating row covers or companion planting. Many pests are less attracted to purple and red pants, so try interplanting purple cabbage and red kale.

6. Harvest your Brussels sprouts.

• From seedling to harvest should take about 80-100 days. To encourage sprout development, pull off the bottom six to ten leaves on the stalk once sprouts begin to form. This will tell the plant to expend more energy growing sprouts. When the sprouts are about half of their mature size, cut the tip of the stalk off. To harvest your sprouts, start at the bottom as those will be more mature and work your way up as they continue to develop. When they reach 1-2 inches in diameter twist them from the stalk, leaving the top sprouts to continue to grow.

beefsteak tomato

Beefsteak tomatoes are a variety of tomato plant from the Solanaceae family, also known as nightshade plants. Other members of this family include potatoes, eggplants, peppers, tobacco and ornamental plants like petunias. One of the most important nutrients found in tomatoes is lycopene, an antioxidant that promotes heart health, protects skin from sun damage, and may reduce the risks of certain cancers by slowing the growth of cancerous cells. Tomatoes also boast a high amount of vitamins K, C and A, potassium, and fiber.

growing instructions:

1. Choose the proper location for sunlight.

• Tomatoes prefer warmer weather. It may be a good idea to keep seedlings indoors until they reach about eight inches tall, then they can be transplanted into loamy, rich, well-drained soil in a very sunny spot after hardening off.

• For a container garden, find a spot that gets at least eight hours of sun a day and is sheltered from strong winds. You will also need a container large enough to support cages or other growing structures that the plant can cling to as it grows. Tomatoes are self-pollinating and have “complete” flowers, so they don’t need the help of critters or wind to set fruit. However, if you are growing indoors you can aid pollination by gently shaking the plant once a day.

2. Plant your seedling transplants up to the first set of leaves.

• For an outdoor garden, give seedlings a 3 to 5-foot space to grow. Beefsteak tomatoes will produce large fruits, sometimes up to a pound in weight, so they will need a cage or support structure to grow within. When planting, dig a hole deep enough to cover the first set of leaves. It may seem counterintuitive to plant the stem in the ground, but eventually roots will grow from it and provide better support for the plant.

• For a container garden, these beefsteak tomatoes will need a well-draining pot that is at least two feet in diameter and two feet deep (5 gallons). They will also need a support structure while growing in a container, so make sure whatever you choose to plant your tomatoes in can accommodate this. Make sure to place your tomato plants in a sunny spot directly after planting.

3. Water your tomatoes.

• Tomatoes have a fairly deep root system, so less frequent, heavier watering typically works better. You want the soil to be moist, but not over saturated. Your tomatoes will likely need 1-2 inches of water a week, and more during spurts of warmer weather. Be careful not to get water on the leaves and avoid watering late at night to reduce chances of disease and pest infestations.

• Since potted soil dries out faster than soil in the garden, you may need to water container-grown tomatoes more often – especially during hot, dry periods. To make sure your soil doesn’t dry out too much, especially if it is in a container, place mulch, straw, compost, or bark around the base of the plants to keep the roots moist and cool. Be careful not to get water on the leaves and avoid watering late at night to reduce chances of disease and pest infestations.

4. Make sure to feed your tomatoes regularly.

• For an outdoor garden, try a slow-release fertilizer or apply compost to the soil prior to planting, with re-applications when needed. If you choose a liquid fertilizer, apply it to the soil once every two to three weeks. The more often you water, the more often nutrients will be leached from the soil. Make sure to look out for signs of nutrient deficiencies on the leaves of your plants and fertilize accordingly.

• For a container garden, use a water-soluble fertilizer once every two weeks starting six weeks after planting (most potting mixes contain enough nutrients to satisfy tomatoes until this time), and make sure to have proper drainage in your pot. As with tomatoes in the ground, every time you water you will leach nutrients from the soil in the pots. Make sure you are replacing these nutrients with semi-frequent fertilizer applications until your tomatoes are beginning to ripen.

5. Deal with the pesky pests.

• Insects are a part of every living ecosystem, when you garden you have to learn how to take the good with the bad! Here are some common bugs that like to chomp on tomatoes and how to deal with them.

  • Aphids: Spray a soapy water mixture around the tomatoes and surrounding plants. Aphids hate it, but it won’t be toxic for your or the other beneficial critters in your garden. If you are planting in a garden, try interplanting sweet alyssum which will attract predators of aphids.

  • Caterpillars: Pick them off one by one, we don’t want to hurt these guys!

  • Harlequin bugs: Cover your tomatoes with tulle or a fine netting.

  • Slugs: Broken egg shells, coffee grounds, and sand make great deterrents for slugs – plus they are often great additives for your soil.

6. Harvest your beefsteak tomatoes.

• Beefsteak tomatoes will take about 60-80 days from seedling transplanting to harvest. These plants will produce classic slicing tomatoes that can grow to be one pound and 4 to 6 inches in diameter. The best time to harvest these tomatoes is when they have ripened fully, that’s when they will be the sweetest and contain the greatest amount of nutrients. To harvest, you can easily pluck them from the plant if fully ripe or use shears to cut them loose.